Reid Elrod – Part 2

Art & Design
toe_puff_bespoke_handmade_shoemaking2

Back in Reid’s shop, he’s working on the “toe puff” or “toe box”, which stiffens the front of the toe for protection and maintains its structure and shape.

toe_puff_bespoke_handmade_shoemaking

And while he’s working, I come across a pair of sidelace oxfords (below) he finished a few weeks ago:

“It’s called a side lace, and it’s not very common but I like it a lot. That pair would technically be considered and oxford if you want to classify them, with a beveled waist. They are the simplest version of a side lace that I’ve done, and I wanted more emphasis on shape rather than pattern. The triangle stitch helps hold the tongue on the lining, and the heel is finished with a puzzle-piece lift. The construction is English welted, which is what the Goodyear machine was created to mimic. One problem about welting machines machine is that the needles cannot change direction, so two threads are used. When the welt is done by hand, there is one thread with two needles, one attached to each end, therefore creating a much stronger welt. Also, machine welts do not use a leather insole but instead use synthetics which is one of their greatest downfalls.”

sidelace_oxford_english_welt

The decoration on the side of his Prince Albert loafers catches my eye. It was created using a decorative wheel pressed into the dense leather after the heel was constructed.

Prince_albert_loafer_heel_decoration

Sole_Heel_nail_decorative_pattern

On the underside of the heel there’s a nail pattern consisting of five carefully placed triangle pairings of nails. It’s a pattern of German descent, he tells me, and it’s those seemingly-superfluous details that make handmade shoes so special; whether your climbing a set of stairs or sitting with your legs crossed on the MAX, when people see a flash of those details it reveals something about your character.

Reid_Elrod_Portland_bespoke_shoemaker

See Also:

Reid Elrod Shoes Part 1

Reid is currently making shoes starting at $700. If you are interested in having a pair of bespoke shoes made for you please send your information to marrowmag at gmail dot com and I will pass it on.

4 Responses to “Reid Elrod – Part 2”

  1. Robin Phillips says:

    What a lovely article! I’m wishing Reid a long and happy career doing what he’s dreamed of…making beautiful handmade shoes :o)

  2. Jamie Snell says:

    Hey Ryan,
    Tell your friend Reid that there are a whole lot of amazing antique shoe maker’s tools and forms at Seek the Unique right now.
    Hope all is well!
    J

  3. Bob Montijo says:

    HI Reid I am good friends with your dad. I saw him today and he told me about your shoes. I think it id awesome that you aredoig this. I am a saddle maker and would love to make boots one day. When you are at your dads for a visit have him bring you up to my saddle shop in Ramona.

  4. devo estrada says:

    excellent job! i love the nail details on the shoe! and the side lace. Keep it up!!
    best wishes

    Devo Estrada

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